There’s nothing like a ripe tomato grown in the heat of summer. Sure, there are juicy, ripe peaches but tomatoes are uniquely delicious and, with just a little salt, can be eaten like an apple, sliced up for salads or teamed up with some mozzarella, basil and some balsamic. Heaven on a plate.
So I saw this article posted by NPR on gets to the heart of the problem with those hard, tasteless store-bought tomatoes. I can’t say it any better myself so will let the article stand on its own.
Here’s an excerpt … enjoy.
If you bite into a tomato between the months of October and June, chances are that tomato came from Florida. The Sunshine State accounts for one-third of all fresh tomatoes produced in the United States — and virtually all of the tomatoes raised during the fall and winter seasons.
But the tomatoes grown in Florida differ dramatically from the red garden varieties you might grow in your backyard. They’re bred to be perfectly formed — so that they can make their way across the U.S. and onto your dinner table without cracking or breaking.
“For the last 50 or more years, tomato breeders have concentrated essentially on one thing and that is yield — they want plants that yield as many or as much as possible,” writer Barry Estabrook tells Fresh Air’s Terry Gross. “They also want those fruits to be able to stand up to being harvested, packed, artificially turned orange [with ethylene gas] and then shipped away and still be holding together in the supermarket a week or 10 days later.”
Estabrook, a freelance food writer whose work has appeared in The Atlantic, The New York Times and The Washington Post, looks at the life of today’s mass-produced tomato — and the environmental and human costs of the tomato industry — in his book Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit. The book was based on a James Beard Award-winning article that originally appeared in Gourmet magazine, where Estabrook was a contributing editor before publication ceased in 2009.
Estabrook says the mass-produced tomatoes in today’s supermarkets lack flavor because they were bred for enduring long journeys to the supermarket — and not for taste.
“As one large Florida farmer said, ‘I don’t get paid a single cent for flavor,’ ” says Estabrook. “He said, ‘I get paid for weight. And I don’t know of any supermarket shopper who tastes her tomatoes before she puts them in her shopping cart.’ … It’s not worth commercial plant breeders’ while to breed for taste because their customers — the large farmers — don’t get paid for it.”
As a result, customers have become accustomed to the flavorless tomatoes that dot supermarket shelves, says Estabrook.
“I was speaking to a person in their 30s recently and she said she had never recalled tasting anything other than a supermarket tomato,” he says. “I think that wanting a tomato in the winter of winter — or wanting a little bit of orange on the plate … is inherent in a lot of our shopping decisions. We expect an ingredient to be on the supermarket shelves 365 days a year, whether or whether not it’s in season or tastes any good.”












